4/16/2024 0 Comments Prius hid vs halogen![]() ![]() So stock the 4runner headlight has some passive airflow built into it It appears to just be some small pore open cell foam as the filter material inside the vent cap. You can't easily clean the inside so keeping it clean and free of moisture and dust is important for long term use.ĮDIT: I found a picture of what the inside of one supposedly from a Toyota looks like. And sometimes they end up being dunked in water if you're going off road with them. If it's not condensation becomes a problem. Normal air exchange is limited to the heating and cooling expansion contraction. But it's not really open to the environment. ![]() I think they use something like goretex membranes to allow airflow and moisture to escape but block water or dust intrusion. I swapped in the Safego into the H9 HighBeam position.The factory housing is mostly sealed. I've swapped in the Sealight lamps and they are much easier on the eyes, as well as maintaining a decent amount out light output. While the cutoff is good, there is still quite a bit of light thrown out by them. So I've decided that the Safego are a bit too bright for the lowbeam. Let me know if you have any more questions. Was a quick and easy experiment, did it in the grocery store parking lot since I'm there most the time anyways. I will be swapping out he H1 fogs to LEDs.Īll the lamps had a faint flicker to them only really noticeable at low engine RPM, I'm sure there's a fix for that, but it's not too annoying. Even though the LED is brighter, the Halogen has a more focused hot spot. Testing the LEDs in the H9 seems to have less intensity than halogen. The H9 I will keep as a halogen, possibly get a colour matched Philips. I'm going to run the Safego for now as I'm quite happy with them. There is a hot spot in the middle, but the halogens also had the same spot, just less intense. With properly adjusted headlights they do not glare. Light is thrown out quite a bit with a clean cut off. They are very bright, and they look quite sharp. So this is a rough eye ball with the calipers through the bulb) ![]() (tried to break one open to measure the filament, but I forgot how much pressure the bulbs are under. Was trying to only purchase LEDs with passive heatsinks, but the Safego had good reviews. Measuring the emitters show's there quite a difference between them. Small, narrow, and thin emitters will create a desirable beam pattern. The reason I chose to test these 4 is each of the lamps has the emitter positioned close to where the halogen filament would sit on a halogen lamp. In my searches I've found many lamps, including the ones listed above, under different names or with mismatched emitters and heatsink. I can't believe I drove around all these years with such crappy lighting from the factory bi-xenons.īrand names don't really mean too much. Worst case, I'm going to stick with the halogen housings and put LED's in the lows and just live with the error message. If not, can I just order up a new Volvo shunt (9442190) and put it in my CEM? Then, when I do upgrade to LED, drill a hole in that shunt and everything will be happy still?īy the way, the factory halogens vs the factory bi-xenon headlights.yeah, the halogens are WAY better for seeing at night, especially the high beams. If I put LED's in now, will the load be similar to the HID's that were in there and make the system all happy again? I guess that message is because the halogens are drawing more power than the bi-xenons did. I get a warning message that says headlight system failure. ![]() I left the auto-levelers plugged in and dangling behind the halogen headlights. For now, I have the factory halogen bulbs in the headlights. The light output always sucked anyways, so I bought a set of halogen headlights with the intention of putting LED H7's in it. I hit a deer with my 2004 XC70 with factory bi-xenon headlights and I destroyed one of the headlights. ![]()
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